Some more data on parts and other bits I used:
Resistor for hotend heater block:
6.8ohm 3W 5%, I use 2 in parallel which gives me 3.4ohm total. I know that this is a bit low, as it will give a high wattage and high amperage, but it has worked very well on my setup. I think many use one 6.8ohm resistor. You may have to insulate the block for it to be able to stay hot enough if you only use the one resistor.
The heat sinks used on the pololu drivers I glue down using Arctic Silver Adhesive like this:
To avoid sending too many amps through my ramps board I let the ramps control a relay which in turn switches the heated bed on and off. It has been working fine from day one.
I use kapton tape on a glass bed. Many use acetone to clean it with, but acetone is very bad for you if inhaled and it is not good for your skin either. If you spill it, it will most likely “kill” what ever it lands on. Bench top, table (painted/varnished) plastic, you name it. It is good, but I have found that Methylated spirit does the job just perfect. It is much friendlier to use full stop.
The next picture shows the various lubricants, silicone and adhesives (epoxy resins) I use for my build.
My heated bed is levelled using 4 bolts upside down with a nut under and above the table. Easy to level, but level it when the bed is at operating temperature (expansion).
For endstops I used some micro swithes from old computers (lid open detection) and from some old printers.
To calibrate the Z-axis I glued (glue gun) a couple of 8mm nuts with a piece of 8mm rod in correct location so I can fine tune the zero position of the nozzle.
The Arduino with Ramps and driver I screwed onto the side of the printer (the benifit of using wood 🙂 .) Note the heatsinks that are on the drivers and the fan above the board to cool. The fan is attached using velcro. A bit of glue from a glue gun or a string will do the same trick.